Summary of our Camino

Now that we are back in Camino season for many walkers, I have realized that I never put together a summary or complete day by day experience for our Camino.  Although it has been less than a year, I had to pull out my pilgrim passport to check a couple of the stops.  In all, we walked for 33 days and had one day we decided not to walk because of the heat (well over 100 degrees F) and two days due to food poisoning.

Using just the days that we actually walked, we averaged 14.6 miles per day, well above the 12 miles that I had loosely planned for the trip.  I wanted to make sure that we would complete the pilgrimage, so I allotted up to 42 days for walking.  If we were able to complete the journey sooner, we would either walk to Fisterra or spend the time in England relaxing.  Marion had recently become very interested in British culture and wanted to spend as much time as possible in London.

As it turned out, my tendinitis was hurting too much to continue the walk to Fisterra.  We had not slept in Albergues for the last couple nights due to availability, so we drove out to Fisterra, enjoyed the town and flew to London the following day.  We continued walking all over London and still averaged at least 10 miles per day.  Once you start, it is difficult to stop walking.

I’ve been asked numerous times why we selected the Valcarlos route.  Simply, I wanted to make sure that we would still be walking on Day #2, and this was the safest option given that we had almost no training leading up to the Camino.  I know the walk to Roncesvalles is considered by some as the most beautiful stretch of the Camino, but I’ve hiked through many beautiful mountains and wanted to make sure that our family would be able to walk on Day #2.  It’s a pilgrimage with the goal of arriving in Santiago on foot, and I was going to plan as best as possible to complete the journey.

In reviewing our itinerary, our easiest day was by far the first, which was an easy 7 miles to Valcarlos.  

Our itinerary was affected by us wanting to avoid certain cities that we had previously stopped in and wanting to stay in certain cities (Azofra, Burgos, Leon, Astorga, Foncebadon, Ponferada and O’Cebreiro) for a variety of reasons.  Azofra has an albergue with 2 people per room, Burgos and Leon are major cities to visit, Astorga is the chocolate capital of Spain and home to burritos, Foncebadon and O’Cebreiro are near the top of mountains and Ponferrada has the famous Castillo de los Templarios.  I can't believe that Brierley's guide doesn't include a stop in Ponferfada.

I have made notes next to each day as to how we felt at the end of the day about our progress.  Sometimes the Camino leaves you no choice but to either stop early and enjoy the town or go outside of your comfort zone and make it a long day.  As we gained confidence, we were able to get outside of our comfort zone, literally, and walk more than 20 miles per day a few times.  Sixteen to eighteen miles was just the right amount of distance, depending upon the weather.  We are from a very mild part of California where the temperature rarely rises above 80 degrees.  Walk in 90 degree heat simply zapped our energy levels and force us off of the trail at an early time.

Toward the end of the Camino, the temperature dropped, allowing us to walk until much later in the day, which was preferable.  When the weather forced us off of the trail by 12 or 1pm, we felt like we stopped to early and could still make a few more miles if it were more temperate.  Only one, day 33 walking to Ventas, did we not have any energy the entire day.  We had planned to walk much further, but had to struggle to walk the 13 miles.

My recommendation is to not plan ahead other than the cities that you wish to visit.  I am glad that we stopped in all of our “must stop” cities, but this did cause us to adjust, either stopping early or stretching out.  I would enjoy feedback about our stops and if you have walked, how you itinerary differed or mirrored ours.

Day #	City	KM	Miles	Comments
	St. Jeaan Pied de Port
1	Valcarlos	11.7	7.3	Getting into shape
2	Espinal	18.6	11.6	Up and over the Pyrenees
3	Zubiri	15.2	9.4	Going down the Pyrenees
4	Pamplona	20.9	13.0	A must stop city
5	Puenta la Reina	23.8	14.8	Miscalculation, too far, too hot
6	Puenta la Reina	-	-	Rest day, over 100 degress
7	Estella	21.9	13.6	Still hot, still getting into shape
8	Los Arcos	21.5	13.4	Still hot, still getting into shape
9	Viana	18.4	11.4	Still hot, still getting into shape
10	Navarrete	22.1	13.7	In shape
11	Azofra	22.4	13.9	A must stop city
12	Redecilla	25.6	15.9	Finding our grove
13	Villafranca	23.9	14.9	Finding our grove
14	Atapuerca	18.3	11.4	Splitting the difference to Burgos
15	Burgos	20.0	12.4	A must stop city
16	Hornillos	21.0	13.0	Should have walked more
17	Itero de Vega	30.7	19.1	Overdoing it a bit
18	Villacazar de Sirga	27.9	17.3	Just right
19	Ledigos	29.1	18.1	Just right
20	Bercianos del Real Camino	26.9	16.7	Just right
21	Reliegos	20.5	12.7	Splitting the difference to Leon
22	Leon	24.3	15.1	A must stop city
23	San Martin	26.0	16.2	Just right
24	Astorga	23.8	14.8	A must stop city
25	Foncebadon	26.4	16.4	Hard day uphill
26	Ponferada	25.1	15.6	Illness
27	Ponferada	-	-	Illness
28	Ponferada	-	-	Illness
29	Pereje	31.1	19.3	Ready to go
30	O cebreiro	23.1	14.4	Just right
31	Triacastela	20.7	12.9	Next stop too far
32	Ferrerios	32.2	20.0	Just right
33	Ventas	21.0	13.0	Tired after a big day
34	Melide	26.4	16.4	Just right
35	Pedrouzo	33.9	21.1	Just right
36	Santiago	19.8	12.3	Tough Day
	Total	774.2	481.1
	Average	23.5	14.6

Keys to Success - 2 Pounds of Nutella

If you are truly interested in making the entire Camino journey on foot, without the aid of a bus, taxi, or other motorized vehicle and completing your distance goal, I have a few suggestions based upon both my success and failure to complete the Camino.   The list is in order of importance based upon my experience walking in the summer months with my wife and two teenagers and could change based upon the time of year.

This subject is important to me because on our first Camino, we didn’t have enough time to complete the route from St. Jean Pied de Port to Santiago.  Based upon some advice I received online, I was told to start wherever I felt and I could bus ahead if I didn’t like that part of Spain.  So we proceeded to jump around Spain and in the end, take a taxi into Santiago because of multiple injuries.  We felt like we had cheated and didn’t really accomplish what we had set out to do, even though we had walked more kilometers than most pilgrims.

We couldn’t get this thought out of our mind, and it led us to walking the Camino again, but with the goal of not taking any shortcuts.  We wanted the entire experience, no matter the consequences.  The advice below is based upon our feeling of incompletion and how best to prepare for completing the pilgrimage without any modern assistance.   Although we try not to judge other pilgrims, the standard of walking the entire Camino was our own self evaluation.  There will always be someone who walked farther and faster, but we wanted to walk the distance we set out for, from St. Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compestella.

1.      Pack Light and Right – I cannot stress this enough as the most important key to completing the Camino.  Although I was in good shape going into my first Camino, the wear and tear of excess weight on my back caused a shoulder injury.  I thought that I was tough enough to carry the weight, why not bring the extra gear with me.  My body disagreed and eventually broke down.  Please go back to my blog post about what to bring and what to leave at home.  Your body will break down if you abuse it with too much weight.  Young and old, strong and weak, pack less than you think that you can survive with and make that a challenge.  It is easier to buy something once you are there than lose a day or more waiting for a post office to be open.

2.       Allow yourself enough time – One of the first few questions asked between pilgrims is when does your flight leave?  So often, the answer is sooner than the time allowed by the guidebooks to complete the pilgrimage.  It is the Camino de Santiago meaning that the point is to get to Santiago.  It is a walking or biking pilgrimage, so you should maintain those means during the entire pilgrimage. 

Where your pilgrimage starts is a personal choice based in part by how much time you have available.  The “American” or “English” complete pilgrimage typically starts in St. Jean Pied de Port, France, but for the Spanish, many start in Roncesvalles.  The French jumping point is Le Puy which is an additional 500 km.  Many people start in Leon or other major cities throughout Spain.  

A relatively common approach is to take a bus or train from Burgos to Leon to skip the “boring” meseta.  In my mind, this changes from the journey from a pilgrimage to a long walking trip.  The point of this point and the pilgrimage is to complete it entirely by walking or biking.   If you don’t have the time, start closer to Santiago and don’t skip sections.  This will lead to skipping ahead and taking short cuts.  Pick a starting point, allow for a couple extra days as “Murphy” will walk along with you and cause mishaps and delays.

3.      Walking partner or Solo - Although I don’t have any experience with walking alone, my thoughts are that this is the best way to complete the Camino successfully.   For me, we were a family of four and never split up while on the trail, so we could only walk as fast as the slowest walker.  The slowest walker actually changed throughout the course of the day which hindered our speed more.   We also ended up with 3 sick days between two different people.

      The downside to the solo walk is not having support or pressure from another person to help push you to finish.   That being said, my recommendation to complete the walk is to go at it alone.  People pair up, then separate if their paces differ, then get back together later down the trail.  Traveling solo does not mean that you will be alone.

4.        Listen to your body – Some days you feel great and can’t wait to get out on the trail.  Other days, you just want to roll over and sleep another couple hours and want the other pilgrims to stop making so much noise getting ready at an ungodly hour of the morning.  Toward the end of the day, you may feel like moving well beyond your anticipated town.  If this is the case, go for it and keep walking.  Other days, you can’t imagine how everyone else is making the 30km stage.  Stop short and rest up for the next day.  Pushing yourself too hard, especially early in the pilgrimage is the best way to get and injury or burned out.  The trip will seem unachievable and you will be tempted to give up.

5.        Have a purpose for walking – This pilgrimage is both a physical and spiritual or mental journey.  As Yogi Berra said, “it’s 90% mental and the other half is physical.”  If you have no reason or purpose for making the pilgrimage by foot, you probably won’t succeed.  It doesn’t have to be religious, but there should be a meaning for it.  For us, it was religious, and as my sister told me, I’m sure God isn’t going to punish you with an injury for trying to make this journey which gave me courage to continue on.

6.       Talk to other pilgrims – I always received some form of inspiration by talking with other pilgrims.  Their stories and reason behind walking almost always seemed bigger and more important than mine.  Fellow pilgrims are you support along the trail and what makes the journey interesting.  I met a pilgrim who has walked the Camino every year for the last 20 some years and continues to enjoy it.  Each time is a new experience for him because of the different people that he meets.  Break out of your group and talk to someone new.  Learn about them, their culture and their reason for walking.

7.       2 Pounds of Nutella – The only reason why I was able to get my 16 year old daughter to complete the pilgrimage was Nutella.  She would buy and carry the 1 kilo jar of Nutella with her at all times.  Joy for her is chocolate, which melts in the hot sun of Spain.  Nutella does not melt and was her source of power on the long hot days.  Treat yourself and get the food, drink or whatever you need to nourish your body.  Enjoy the coffee and food of Spain.  Oddly enough, the most read blog post was Finding Burritos in Astorga (http://www.pilgrimoutfitters.com/2015/07/finding-burritos-in-astorga.html) which highlighted my satisfaction in finding my favorite food, burritos.

For those who have successfully walked the Camino, please leave comments about anything that enabled you to complete the entire 500 miles walking.

Packing List for a Successful Camino - 15 pound list

As I have now returned home and people have read the blog, I have realized that there is a lot of information that I simply left out of my writing as I wanted to have the reader live our experience.  Since the blog made the Camino sound like nothing but fun, everyone wants to do it now and are asking me lots of questions, since I'm now the expert after two Caminos.  I'm fairly black and white on packing since my first Camino was left uncompleted in part due to improper and over packing.  Here is my list, in order of importance:

1.  Backpack (35 - 40L)  On my first Camino, I selected the Gregory Baltero 65L which fit my body perfectly in the REI store.  The issue was that it weighed almost 6 pounds empty and was large enough to carry my entire family's equipment.  The old adage of it you have extra space, you will fill it up with stuff, was true on that first Camino.  At the start, my pack was around 30 pounds which wasn't a good fit for a mid 40's out of shape pilgrim.  I foolishly ignored all of the go light/pack light advice that I am now giving.  Less on your back, less pain and suffering, more Camino enjoyment.

The second Camino, I had learned my lesson and purchased another Gregory, but this time 40L that weighed less than 3 pounds and still had plenty of room for all my items and much more.  This time, I wasn't tempted with having the extra space and was content to have a "flat" pack.  The two other brands that seem to dominate the Camino are Osprey and Deuter, both of which have the 40L size and get great reviews.  Make sure that you try the pack on in a store, but you can always purchase them at an online discounter, such as Sierra Trading Post or check the REI Outlet to save on the budget.  Plan on spending around $200 for the right pack.  If it doesn’t come with a waterproof cover, make sure you purchase one.

2.  Sleeping Bag (600g)  Once again, we learned our lesson with our first Camino when we rolled out 3 pound plus sleeping bags while all these Europeans had thin and lightweight bags.  We mailed our bags home and purchased the lightweight bags in Europe.  Unfortunately, I have never been able to find a similar bag in the states and would recommend waiting until getting to Europe to purchase one.  We used 600g (roughly 1.3 pounds) that you can find for around $60 in Europe compared to over $300 for an ultralight bag at a high end specialty shop.

The reason why the sleeping bag is second in the order of importance is because it is the heaviest item in your bag, unless your carry 2 pounds of Nutella like my daughter Marion.

My experience is strictly based upon summer conditions, but given that albergues have heaters, together with a sleeping bag liner, you should be comfortable.  The sleeping bag liner which is a subset of the sleeping bag category is also a necessity.  On really hot nights, I would lay down the sleeping bag and sleep in just the liner.

3.  Footwear - Probably the biggest controversy on the Camino is footwear - running shoes, crosstrainers, trail running shoes, socks with sandals or hiking boots.   Although I looked with jealousy at pilgrims passing me with light weight shoes, when we hit the rocky paths, I was glad to have my Keen boots.  I'm sure that you can get by with a lighter weight shoe, but if you are carrying about 20 pounds, hiking boots are highly recommended.  After walking 500 miles, my feet were in perfect condition, without even a hint of a blister or callus.

My routine for foot care was to apply Vaseline in between my toes and on the bottom of my foot, followed by a liner and then a medium weight wool sock.  Occasionally, my feet (and the rest of my body) felt hot, but that was the extent of my discomfort.  Many pilgrims would take off their shoes and socks during the day, but I never felt the need to do this.  I think footwear is a very personal choice, but if you want to err on the side of caution, go with the hiking boot as it will provide the best protection for your feet.

My selection was the Keen Targhee II Mid Hiking boot from REI.  I selected a full size larger than my normal size to allow for the swelling in my feet and multiple layers of socks.  Also, although waterproof will cause the boot to be heavier and stiffer, I recommend it due to the wet weather in Spain almost all of the year.

Not as important, but still crucial for an enjoyable Camino are the afternoon sandals or shoes.  The sandals are critical as it is highly recommended to shower with sandals and you will want to “air” out your feet in the afternoon.  There is also many opportunities to enjoy rivers at the end of the day that are best with sandals. 

I originally packed a pair of Tevo sandals with a full sole until I realized that they weighed almost two pounds!  It was a mad dash at the last minute to find a light weight pair of sandals, but with enough support for my feet for the walking around town at the end of the day.  I ended up with a pair of Crocs that were incredible light weight, around ½ pound, but with great support.

As for a second pair of shoes, I highly discourage carrying an extra pair.  With the appropriate pair of sandals, it just isn’t necessary.   This packing list is intended for minimal weight so you can enjoy the Camino, and the weight/benefit ratio, doesn’t support a second pair of shoes.

4.  Clothing – Regular Wear – First of all, your entire wardrobe should be ultra light, moister wicking, and quick dry.  Speaking as a man traveling in summer, my entire wardrobe was two button down shirts, one t-shirt, two shorts, one pair of long pants, and three pairs of underwear.  I could have been able to survive with just one pair of shorts and two pairs of underwear, but you never know what might happen.  On cold days, which we had at the higher elevations, I would wear the t-shirt, button down shirt and rain jacket with the long pants and I was comfortable.  We had several mornings in which the temperature dropped into the low 40’s, but your body heats up with the activity.

5.  Outerwear – Being that I am almost completely bald, a hat was a necessity for me and highly recommended by any reputable dermatologist.  I decided to go with the wide brim Tilley hat which after 3 years has proven to be incredibly durable and protective, although greatly lacking in style.   There is no way around it, you look like a tourist, but that is alright as anyone can spot a pilgrim in Spain.  It should be warn as a badge of honor.

In addition to my wide brim hat, I wore a bandana around my neck for further sun protection.  This also looked ridiculous, but prevented any sun exposure.  On really hot days, I would dip the bandana in water to keep cool.  Sunglasses are also a necessity.

Another great debate is poncho or rain jacket and rain pants.  I’d call this a personal preference, but I would go with the rain jacket to eliminate carrying another jacket and using it as an additional layer.  I opted not to take rain pants due to the weight and bulk for relatively little use.  During our Camino, we only had two days of rain and were able to walk in shorts.  If the weather gets really bad, you can find a poncho and buy it in Spain.

6.  Misc. Equipment – Flashlight or headlamp is a necessity in the summer as you will want to start walking prior to daybreak.  My preference is the headlamp so that you can still use walking sticks. 

Walking sticks is another personal preference item that I opted for and came in handy when my tendinitis acted up.  Anit-shock and light weight is the way to go with the sticks.  Make sure that they are comfortable in your hands.

First aid kit should consist of only a needle and lighter.  Any other first aid items can be purchased as needed in Spain.

A 1 liter water bottle is all that you need for drinking.  On long hot days with few water stops between towns, we would purchase additional water bottles.  There is only a couple days where this happens.  A 3 liter bladder is complete overkill.

Collapsible Day Pack – I used the Sea to Summit day pack that is light and packs up really small, yet can handle quite a bit of weight for afternoon walks around town with plenty of water.   For those who ship their packs on occasion, this would be a necessity.  I found this at REI as well.

Guidebook – there are now many online versions of the guidebook.  I used a camino app and consulted other pilgrim’s guidebooks.  Just remember, the guidebooks have errors.  Do not count on cafes or other facilities being open or still in business.  Also, albergues are being opened continuously and are often not listed.  The most common error is the price as it can fluctuate throughout the season.

Ziplock Bags – Pack everything in zip lock bags and bring extra as they will get holes and fail in other ways.   I always kept my passport, pilgrim credential and map in a ziplock in case my pack cover failed.

7.  Toiletries – Bare necessities here and all travel size:   Toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, deodorant, shampoo, shaving cream, razor, comb, sunscreen, chapstick, quick dry towel (full size).  Toilet paper and tissue paper as some restroom or albergues don’t resupply very often.

8.  Electronics – I survived with just a smart phone and was able to write this blog using it.   A tablet or computer is just too heavy and really unnecessary for the Camino.  Yes, we need to stay in touch, but we also need to unplug and actually talk to our fellow pilgrims.  This is a time to step back in time with the simplicity of just getting up in the morning and walking.  I understand those who like to take a camera, but you really should consider the weight and time to recharge batteries.  The more electronic equipment, the more chargers are necessary and making sure that everything has a charge.  My phone easily lasted throughout the day without any additional battery or ridiculous solar charger.

Always remember, take less, not more.  There are stores throughout Spain that sell items just for El Camino and will have what you need.  You will enjoy your pilgrimage with less weight.  I have never heard a pilgrim say “I wish I had brought more.”

So, do yourself a favor and join REI and get ready to receive a big dividend check the year after your camino.

Santiago! and Finesstere

We decided to walk the last 32 miles to Santiago in two days.  So, once again,  we put in a 20 mile day, but this time with more ease.  It was still close to a 10 hour day, but we started out by 5 a.m and arrived by 3:00pm.  This section of the Camino is beautiful with paths through wooded areas most of the day.

We stopped at small villages along the Camino and really tried to enjoy the day.  We collected about 5 different stamps to make sure we wouldn't be denied a Compestella.  This day was the most crowded with pilgrims that we had seen, even though we started fron a smaller town.  We had decided not to make a reservation with an albergue as there are many large ones with well over 1,000 beds in town.  I was sure that we wouldn't have trouble as the previous days were half full at best.

As we arrived at 3pm, we were greeted with "completo" signs at the first few albergues.   As we looked for a bed, it was clear every albergue and pension We're was sold out.  We left the girls in town as Marion couldn't walk any extra steps,  later to be picked up by car.

We followed some signs to a new casa rural, a type of pension with a private room, but shared bathroom.   We secured the last two room, 10 minutes before the owner received a call asking for a reservation.   Our last night on the Camino would be spent in "luxury" with real beds, sheets, towels and soap in the bathroom.   Juliana couldn't believe that there were 6 extra rolls of toilet paper in the bathroom.

We skipped laundry for once and walked into town for dinner.  We ate at a nice cafe with a very funny waitress.  I ordered my favorite,  grilled chicken sandwich,  the first time seeing it in Spain.   We were catching all the breaks today.  As pilgrims were still arriving in town, they were looking for non-existent beds.  I'm not sure where they slept or what happens during the busiest times on the Camino.   Resources were obviously stretched beyond capacity.

We woke up at 4:30 the next morning so we could arrive in Santiago by 11am and attend the noon pilgrims mass at the Cathedral.   I had thought the last day would be our easiest and we would be skipping and dancing into Santiago.  But the stress of having to be somewhere by a certain time wad foreign to us for the last month.  We had walked with a general idea of where we would go for the day, but were free to make changes.   We had no reservations or time commitments. ..we had been free.

I snapped at Gisela to pick up the pace and said we could only stop once for food.  This was the best fuel for a mutiny and the three girls plotted against me.  Clearly,  I had forgotten what this pilgrimage was about and what is most important in life.  I gathered the family for a group hug, prayer and apology,  and we were back on track.

We held hands together and our pace quickened.  The Camino was filled with pilgrims and tourists who get dropped off by buses to walk into Santiago.   We hit the town, but still had aways to walk to the Cathedral.   Our pace slowed again as we were feeling the effects of the previous day's 20 miles and the past 475 miles.

We arrived at the Cathedral at 11am, and a great sense of joy and relief immediately came over me.  I was walking ahead with Juliana and we had a quick hug and shout of celebration.  Then we were off to get our compostela at the pilgrims office and mass at the Cathedral.   We saw some friends from the Camino and shared celebration hugs.  Since taking two days off for illness in Ponferrada,  we lost track of most of the pilgrims we were walking with.  We had made uo a day by walking 70 miles in 4 days, so those that stayed an extra day were still around.

Celebrating In Front of the Cathedral

Although I speak some Spanish,  it isn't good enough to understand the mass.  The church is truly remarkable and it was moving to see so many pilgrims.  There was a group of 10 nuns who had walked the camino and were at the service with us.  The expression on their faces showed how much their pilgrimage had meant to them.

I'm not sure of the look on my face,  but this was very special to me as well.  With Juliana turning 18 and starting college,  we don't know if we will ever have a family trip like this again.  The simplicity of the Camino is so calming to the soul, but will be lost once we return to our normal lives.  Our first Camino turned us into minimalists already, but there are a few changes that we talked about changing, including walking and hiking more, and more volunteer work.

We bought a few souvenirs then headed to pick up our rental car to drive out to Finisterre.   We had contemplated walking ti Finisterre,  but with my tendinitis and the group's general condition,  we decided to drive it.  I didn't want to walk it as it is the Camino de Santiago,  not Finisterre,  but wouldn't fault anyone who wanted to continue.  Walking is addictive and as much as we were ready to stop,  a small part of me wanted to wake up the next morning,  throw my pack on, and walk anywhere.

Gisela and Joe Cooper at KM 0.0

As we arrived in Finisterre,  I was glad we hadn't walked.  Finisterre is a nice beach town with a peninsula jetting out into the ocean with a lighthouse,  but it isn't the same as arriving at the Cathedral and attending mass.  We slept in a nice hotel by the beach again with the luxury of towels, a private bath, blankets, etc.  The next morning was Juliana's 18th birthday and we are celebrating by flying to London.   She is thrilled to complete a Camino before turning 18 and be in 2 different countries on her birthday.   London has always been the goal and carrot for Marion as she has recently fallen in love with British culture.

Julie at KM 0.0

So, thus ends our Camino for now.   We have talked about what we have learned, how we have grown,  and how this pilgrimage will change our lives.  I ask Juliana and Marion if they will someday walk the Camino with their kids.  As I asked the question,  I came to realize how out there we really are.  Who tells their two teenage daughters we are walking 500 miles this summer?...Joe and Gisela Cooper.

I hope that you have enjoyed our story.  I'm humbled at the number of people who have been reading this blog.  I encourage you to leave comments and share this with you friends.  If anyone is considering walking the Camino with their family,  I highly recommend it.  It may not be easy,  but it will be days that you will never forget for the rest of your life.

God Bless.

The girls before the Pilgrim's mass at noon.

The path into Santiago

Inside the church at pilgrim's mass

One of the countless arrow markers

Julie - last day of walking